Completed Complete: Barbaros Rocnel Adjustable Pass Around

sɐǝɹpu∀

sɐǝɹpu∀

riverrun
B&R Adjustable - Shave #5

  • Tabac Original soap
  • Nero Ardesia mystery synthetic brush
  • B&R Adjustable
  • Voskhod blade (2)
  • Alum block
  • Tüff Herb ASL
Now I'm a bit more relaxed about the B&R Adjustable I can pay a bit more attention to the razor itself. One thing I noticed first time round is that there are no markings on the head that help you to put the top cap on the right way round, like the triangle and line the Merkur Progess has:
Or does it? Of course there are markings on the top cap! There's a big fat logo on it. It turns out that if you assemble the head so that you can see the line on the base plate and the logo is the right way up, you have assembled the head the right way round:
I have no idea if this is intentional or not or if this will be consistent across production razors, but if you buy one, the line on the base plate and the logo on the top cap will always be in the same arrangement between shaves.
The mystery brush is quite nice. The handle is made from black slate and is quite cold initially, but I soaked it in hot water (together with the razor, as I do) for a while and the handle was nice and warm afterwards. Tabac Original is my go-to soap right now. Goodness it's good. I lived a few kilometres from the Tabac factory as a student, but I had a beard back then.....
I was very happy with yesterday's shave and it lasted quite long. I left the same Voskhod blade in the razor today and dialled it down to '2'. The razor was a little bit milder than yesterday, but not by a massive amount. It still did a very good job, but there is a tiny bit of stubble appearing in my 'problem areas' six hours later, so the shave didn't last quite as long as yesterday's. There were no nicks or weepers and the alum block and ASL had not much to complain about. All in all another pleasant and close shave. Maybe I should try and dial it up a bit tomorrow, maybe not all way to 11.
TBC...
 
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sɐǝɹpu∀

sɐǝɹpu∀

riverrun
B&R Adjustable - Shave #6
I've learned a new word today: Aestivation.
It's like hibernation, except during the summer months. So I took my scuttle out of aestivation today, used my big Mühle synthetic brush on some Tabac Original soap and was rewarded with large amounts of excellent warm, warm lather.
I put a fresh Voskhod blade into the B&R adjustable without any issues (see yesterday's tip) and dialled it up all the way to 8.
You can dial it even higher if you want, i.e. if you overshoot to '1' that would be '9' etc, but '8' is as high as I'll go. On '8' there is plenty of blade feel. I felt the need to slow down and concentrate really hard. You really shouldn't use any pressure on this setting unless you're into self-harming. The plan was to start on 8 and then dial the razor down on subsequent passes, but I was feeling reckless and did four passes on '8'.
You can really feel this machine cut down stubble. Going ATG under the nose did feel a bit scary. I thought that any mistake in shaving angle would be punished. Amazingly I managed all four passes without any nicks or weepers, but the shave took a bit longer than normal. The alum block and ASL told me that I was lucky and should have nicked myself. Quite a bit of sting. I decided to put some Speick Men ASB on, as a precaution.
The end result is spectacular however. Shaves don't get any closer than this.
If you like your razors aggressive (as in plenty of blade feel), the B&R Adjustable can deliver for you. I intend to see how mild it can get tomorrow. I'll dial it down to '1'. It might also be time to check out blades other than the Voskhod.
TBC...
 
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sɐǝɹpu∀

sɐǝɹpu∀

riverrun
B&R Adjustable - Shave #7

Today the Calani Tulach Ard soap has come out of aestivation as well. Good stuff, but the scent is wintery rather than summery - in summer I prefer Calani's Iberian Sun.
I think the scuttle will see regular use now until it's getting a bit warmer again.
The B&R Adjustable was dialled down all the way to '1', with a fresh PolSilver blade. It's a completely different beast today. Much, much milder than on '8'. No need to concentrate. I never thought I could cut myself and I didn't. I do prefer 'tame' razors over 'aggressive' ones, but on '1' it's almost too mild even for me. I did end up clean shaven, but I know that the closeness won't last as long as the result I get on '8'. No surprise there.
Alum block and ASL have nothing to say - my skin should thank me.
What have I learned today? Not much, really. If you prefer a mild razor, the B&R adjustable can do that as well. It covers the full range (and maybe more). That's not surprising - it's an adjustable razor after all. For me, I think the best setting so far was '4', but I might try '3' or '5' tomorrow. I might also do a shave off with the Merkur Digress. I'm not done yet.
TBC...
 
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sɐǝɹpu∀

sɐǝɹpu∀

riverrun
B&R Adjustable - Shave #8
Wahey!
I haven't used Cella soap for a while. Probably because I have too many samples all over the place and if I don't try samples I use Tabac Original. That's of course a mistake, as Cella is up there with the best.
I face lathered with my big Mühle synthetic brush. Goodness, the lather was absolutely perfect and after the shave I had enough lather left in the brush for a second shave. This brush will help with my soap problem (too many, too much).
The B&R was set to '3' and I can declare that I found my setting for this razor. Three.
What an enjoyable shave! Two days worth of stubble were removed with absolute ease. I must partly credit the Cella . That lather was so slick, slick, slick. The B&R showed the perfect balance of being very efficient, yet not trying to attack me. After my usual four passes I knew I was on to a winner. A perfect 10 on the facial smoothness scale. Dolphin Bum Smooth, or whatever it's called these days. Alum block and ASL were perfectly happy, giving me very little sting. The Cella made my face feel so good that I decided to increase the effect and use some Geo F. Trumper Coral skin food.
The shave was so good that today, 24 hours later, I need to skip a shave. It was that good. Really.
To sum it up, the B&R does not only do 'mild' on 1 or 'aggressive' on '8' (or beyond), it also does perfect shaves somewhere in between and for me that setting is '3'. That's where the razor will remain for me. And I'll stick with Cella for a couple of days.
Tomorrow I plan to do a shave off with my Merkur Digress, the only remotely similar razor to the B&R I have. Maybe I'll take the B&R apart to take pictures of the inner workings and see exactly where things went wrong for me first time round (unless @theunnamed intervenes and tells me not to).
TBC...
 
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Darkbulb

Darkbulb

Member #10
All you guys are in a very enviable position as you've had the opportunity to actually try this razor before making a purchase decision.
With the razor now being released, I guess the question is for you testers; "Is this a $300 razor?"
 
Dogsmro

Dogsmro

Forum GOD!
Darkbulb said:
All you guys are in a very enviable position as you've had the opportunity to actually try this razor before making a purchase decision.
With the razor now being released, I guess the question is for you testers; "Is this a $300 razor?"
Click to expand...
It's heart breaking for me DB.
 
Acer89

Acer89

James
I've haven't tried the B&R but without doubt $300 takes it off my wish list. I was expecting a price of somewhere between $220 - $250. :thumbsdown:
 
Dogsmro

Dogsmro

Forum GOD!
Acer89 said:
I've haven't tried the B&R but without doubt $300 takes it off my wish list. I was expecting a price of somewhere between $220 - $250. :thumbsdown:
Click to expand...
I was prepared to go upto a couple of hundred, that for me is a lot of money for a razor, if you consider that the most expensive shaver I have is a long handled progress, it would have been quite a leap. I hope B&R do well with it because it's a damn fine instrument, just ashame more people won't get the chance to find out.
 
Acer89

Acer89

James
Dogsmro said:
I was prepared to go upto a couple of hundred, that for me is a lot of money for a razor, if you consider that the most expensive shaver I have is a long handled progress, it would have been quite a leap. I hope B&R do well with it because it's a damn fine instrument, just ashame more people won't get the chance to find out.
Click to expand...
+1 to that @Dogsmro I have my name down for a Digress HD and I've bagged myself a Gillette slim adjustable. Spending $300 on a stainless adjustable isn't a priority for me.
 
sɐǝɹpu∀

sɐǝɹpu∀

riverrun
B&R Adjustable v Merkur Digress - Shave #9
The B&R on the left side of my face, the Merkur Digress on the right. Both with a fresh PolSilver blade. The B&R is on 3 out of 8 and the Merkur on 2 out of 5 - my preferred setting on this razor. My digress is on the '+' to the left of '1' when fully dialled down, so I should really call this setting 2.5.
Both razors have the most wonderful slick lather to work with. The Nero Ardesia brush doesn't produce those ridiculous amounts of lather the big Mühle brush generates, but there is still plenty of it for four passes and more.
The razors give a very similar shave, but there are differences. The B&R is of course heavier, being made from stainless steel, despite being a bit shorter than the Digress. The sound they make is different, the Merkur having more high frequencies. I have no idea what to make of that and which I prefer. Just something I noticed.
The shave with both razors was very easy and comfortable. Blade feel is similar. Both did an excellent job removing two days worth of stubble and giving me a smooth face. The alum block and ASL sting slightly more on the B&R side, but only because I pay attention. At the end of the shave I'm pleased with the result all over. No nicks, cuts or other incidents, just a smooth face. I could use either razor as a daily shaver if I didn't prefer SE razors. Two hours later I can feel the first stubble on my face and it is...... right on the demarcation line under my chin. Clear user error.
Many hours later I can now declare the winner - by a very slim margin it's a draw. The Merkur might be ahead ever so slightly - I noticed first signs of stubble on the B&R side 15 minutes before I noticed them on the Merkur side. For all practical purposes that's a draw.
Finally, here is something I was wondering about the B&R: How do they do it? When you assemble the razor with a blade in and close it completely it stops on '1'. How do they do that? There is either some serious precision magic going on or they assemble a razor with a blade in and then engrave the numbers on the handle to match that one specific head. That would make replacement or aftermarket handles impossible. I have no idea how they do it, but I'd love to know.
Maybe a shave off with the Merkur 45 next? Probably. I also plan to take the B&R apart and take some photos of how it works (I have permission)...
TBC...
 
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Rowlers

Rowlers

Massive Member
Staff member
Darkbulb said:
All you guys are in a very enviable position as you've had the opportunity to actually try this razor before making a purchase decision.
With the razor now being released, I guess the question is for you testers; "Is this a $300 razor?"
Click to expand...
I don't think ANY razor is worth $300.
The B&R is the best razor I have tried in the PREMIUM end of the market. It is as well finished as the Timeless; cranked up, it shaves closer and more comfortably than the Timeless .95OC (for me IMO, so far).
Wound in, it is as gentle as a Tech.
At $200, I think they would have sold out by now.
 
sɐǝɹpu∀

sɐǝɹpu∀

riverrun
B&R Adjustable v Merkur 45 - Final Shave #10
The B&R on the left side of my face, the Merkur 45 on the right.
I was feeling cocky and got my big Omega 49 out - a brush I'm struggling with. I got huge amounts of lather rather quickly and was feeling rather smug. On my face the lather immediately collapsed into thinness. Boar brushes and me aren't made for each other. I washed off the poor excuse for lather and started again with my big Mühle synthetic brush. Just as fast, just as much lather if not more, but this time it stayed lovely and slick. Life's too short for boar brushes.
The two razors couldn't be more different if they tried. The Bakelite Merkur 45 is by far the lightest razor I own (if you disregard the Gillette Guard and BiC Metal), the B&R Adjustable - a stainless steel heavy weight - 132.5g - is 9 times heavier. In comparison with the Merkur Digress (111.2g) you don't notice the weight of the B&R, but when using it together with the Merkur 45 the weight of the B&R bothered me a little bit. The plastic marvel is just so much more nimble and that's one reason I enjoy it so much (the other being that it gives bloody good shaves).
I did my usual four pa.... skip... skip... skip... ...nded up with a smooth face all over as expected. The alum block and ASL agree that there is not much to complain about on either side and I'll have to see which half-shave will last longer.
How do you compare a 5900kg ↪Conquest Knight XV to a 612kg ↪Ariel Atom? You can't. Today I preferred the lightweight zippy number though. I can't believe I hadn't used it in two months, but when I don't have a pass around razor to play with I almost exclusively use either my 1912 or the Bunny V3 these days.
This was my last shave with the B&R Adjustable. Tomorrow (or maybe later today) I'll let you know which half-shave lasted longer. I'll try and disassemble the B&R tomorrow to have a closer look at its inner workings, then I'll send it on (after putting it back together first, of course) and will give my overall verdict.
TBC..
 
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