Attar عطار

pjgh

Forum GOD!
Today, Fragrance of Arabia Black Musk Super - billed as "sweet, dark and utterly smooth with a slight balsamic core" it's a definite step up from regular black musk, retaining all the qualities that you'd expect from Black Musk with a deeper air of mystery.
 

Grarea

Forum Plod
Thanks for doing this Paul.
They really are just what I have wanted. I didn't know they existed.
They are rich, complex, long lasting, 'deep' smells.
Smashing.
The ones I got are not really me, but a great place to start.
I find them a bit sweet. I shall be playing with them though.
(Although there is much to like about them, especially the dry grass)

Can you hang on to my feet? I am going in.
 

pjgh

Forum GOD!
You got the Lily and the grasses, right? Green (Wet) grass (khus) is a curious one, isn't it? I struggled to figure out just when I'd want wet hay as a scent. Dried grass (khus) is indeed lovely.

Jump on in, both feet first! No hanging on ...

Here's a hint, for first timers looking for that "what is the definitive Arabian scent?" ... it's Ajmal's Arabian Musk. Like YSL Kouros is the definitive man scent of French-style perfumes. Arabian Musk is really what I though Mukhallat Malaki should be (Mukhallat Malaki is the "Royal Blend") - it's all those things just described: rich, complex, long-lasting, deep, mysterious, smoke, incense, amber, florals, woods, musks, all in perfect balance.

My favourite. Simply named. Aptly named.
 

pjgh

Forum GOD!
Today, I'm wearing Egyptian Majmua (via PPG) attar - pretty much a green chypre, if we're using western classifications.
 

Grarea

Forum Plod
Oh, no, I didn't add that to the list.

You got the Lily and the grasses, right? Green (Wet) grass (khus) is a curious one, isn't it? I struggled to figure out just when I'd want wet hay as a scent. Dried grass (khus) is indeed lovely.

Jump on in, both feet first! No hanging on ...

Here's a hint, for first timers looking for that "what is the definitive Arabian scent?" ... it's Ajmal's Arabian Musk. Like YSL Kouros is the definitive man scent of French-style perfumes. Arabian Musk is really what I though Mukhallat Malaki should be (Mukhallat Malaki is the "Royal Blend") - it's all those things just described: rich, complex, long-lasting, deep, mysterious, smoke, incense, amber, florals, woods, musks, all in perfect balance.

My favourite. Simply named. Aptly named.
Well, I'd start out with a pure/single scent from a good seller. Here's a Grade A: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Frankincense-3Ml-High-Quality-Arabian-Oil-Grade-A-/121825982865

Thereafter, you'll know the scent well for blends like Al Haramain Sheikh, which is a pretty classic blend.
Oh, no, there are so many.
Suddenly I can see how you ended up with so many Paul.

Yes, I can see how the fresh grass might hit the spot for some.
It is a really good one of them. If you know what I mean.

OK, I am finding a trend in the ones I have and if there is a 'something' I find it too 'something'.
I keep wanting to call it 'sweet' but I am not sure that is the right phrase.

I picked a random comment the other day and ordered 'surrati jannat al firdaus' (after a cider or two)
I wondered if anyone had that one and can tell me what you think of it.
And how you would describe it?
I can detect a lot of flavours to it, but don't know how to describe it.
Again, I think this is a bit too 'something' but it is very interesting for sure.
I really like it, but probably would go for something a bit more 'something'.

In the meantime I ordered a small batch of different ones to try then I really must stop.
Boy, this is a rabbit hole. Be aware gents.
 

pjgh

Forum GOD!
Surrati's Jannat al Firdaus is lighter than Al Haramain's and in many respects more western. It's Lily of the Valley as a big note in there. Smell the single scent Lily and then the Jannat al Firdaus ... you'll find it. There's other white florals in there, Jasmine largely. There's moss. There's musk. If you have a bottle of Ralph Lauren Polo, you'll find a distinct similarity! Surrati's Jannat al Firdaus is a chypre, in quite a classic sense.

Al Haramain's Jannat al Firdaus is more on the aromatic fougere side, while it's their Jannat al Naeem which is the stronger chypre. Both of these are an olfactory step up from Surrati. They're strong! They're also a little spicier. I'm struggling to find the exact wording myself, but it's a pepperiness which is not in the Surrati. Personally, I prefer the Surrati. For the really brave, try Swiss Arabian/Givaudan's versions of these - they're STRONG! I can't actually wear these as the bottles have a habit of burping and I got a big burp of one all the way down my arm - I could still smell it weeks later!

Jannah is paradise. There are levels and Firdaus is the highest level of paradise, where the prophets and marytrs dwell - it's the scent of pure heaven.
 

pjgh

Forum GOD!
To understand these oil, think in layers beyond top, middle and bottom.

Think many layers: musks are the base, mosses are down there, too as are roots, like vetiver; but we're getting up to woods: oudh, cedar, birch and here is the link to the heavier greens: patchouli; next we're up in the greens ... but wait, there's also the ambers, balsams and other resins, some sweet, some powdery, some cough sweet balsamic; greens come heavy (patchouli or basil) or light (kewda, kadam and motia); next we find florals which are generally white (jasmine, lily, vanilla and so on), rose or yellow (ylang ylang, orange blossom and so on) and here we find links right back to the bottom - jasmine is musky, rose can be musky, vanilla can link down to the musks.

It's more helpful to think in terms of musk, wood, amber, green and floral.

You'll find the words ...

As a newcomer to Arabian oils, you'll find them so distinctly different from the western scents you're used to. Give it time ... you'll find the crossover, you'll find the notes in your favourite sprays and you'll know the sprays which you can wear with which attars on your wrists. There is a massive trend in perfumery today towards Arabian notes, largely oudh, musks too and vanilla is really making inroads into male scents today. With a good grounding in these oils, you'll understand those perfumes much better.
 

pjgh

Forum GOD!
Majmua is like stepping into a paan house
Majmua is just so different from anything in western perfumery. It really is the very epitomy of the exotic. It wasn't until you mentioned the word "Paan" in reference to the perfume that it clicked. You meant sweet, as in delicacy; I remembered a paan scented liquer and recalled how exotic is smelled. Wonderful to have it in a perfume. I think the baked earth is a phenomenal contribution to the scent, too.
 

Nishy

Forum GOD!
Staff member
Majmua is just so different from anything in western perfumery. It really is the very epitomy of the exotic. It wasn't until you mentioned the word "Paan" in reference to the perfume that it clicked. You meant sweet, as in delicacy; I remembered a paan scented liquer and recalled how exotic is smelled. Wonderful to have it in a perfume. I think the baked earth is a phenomenal contribution to the scent, too.
Ah yes paan bahar (original) and standard paan liquour. Also similar tones to kewra water. It is rather exotic, however unfortunately I find it too sweet, perhaps better as a perfume IMO. I have however, noticed this note in several high end aftershaves, mixed with coriander, aniseed and hard Moss with wood type bases. From memory I believe it was Paco Rabane that I noticed use a majmua vein in several of their perfumes. One million in particular, to my nose contains kewra water (light) mixed with cinnamon and basalmic notes.
 

Grarea

Forum Plod
Surrati's Jannat al Firdaus is lighter than Al Haramain's and in many respects more western. It's Lily of the Valley as a big note in there. Smell the single scent Lily and then the Jannat al Firdaus ... you'll find it. There's other white florals in there, Jasmine largely. There's moss. There's musk. If you have a bottle of Ralph Lauren Polo, you'll find a distinct similarity! Surrati's Jannat al Firdaus is a chypre, in quite a classic sense.

Al Haramain's Jannat al Firdaus is more on the aromatic fougere side, while it's their Jannat al Naeem which is the stronger chypre. Both of these are an olfactory step up from Surrati. They're strong! They're also a little spicier. I'm struggling to find the exact wording myself, but it's a pepperiness which is not in the Surrati. Personally, I prefer the Surrati. For the really brave, try Swiss Arabian/Givaudan's versions of these - they're STRONG! I can't actually wear these as the bottles have a habit of burping and I got a big burp of one all the way down my arm - I could still smell it weeks later!

Jannah is paradise. There are levels and Firdaus is the highest level of paradise, where the prophets and marytrs dwell - it's the scent of pure heaven.
I don't have any western scents. I have never found any worth bothering with.
Got you about the lily of the valley. Definitely. Well done.
That is the bit I am not as keen on.
Ah, yes, i see the musk. I was wondering if there was a 'musky' smell.
Can't recognise 'moss' though.

Boy they differ from one person to another don't they?
I know this is the case. But BOY.

Is it normal to want to lick your arm?
 

Ash

Legendary Member
To understand these oil, think in layers beyond top, middle and bottom.

Think many layers: musks are the base, mosses are down there, too as are roots, like vetiver; but we're getting up to woods: oudh, cedar, birch and here is the link to the heavier greens: patchouli; next we're up in the greens ... but wait, there's also the ambers, balsams and other resins, some sweet, some powdery, some cough sweet balsamic; greens come heavy (patchouli or basil) or light (kewda, kadam and motia); next we find florals which are generally white (jasmine, lily, vanilla and so on), rose or yellow (ylang ylang, orange blossom and so on) and here we find links right back to the bottom - jasmine is musky, rose can be musky, vanilla can link down to the musks.

It's more helpful to think in terms of musk, wood, amber, green and floral.

You'll find the words ...

As a newcomer to Arabian oils, you'll find them so distinctly different from the western scents you're used to. Give it time ... you'll find the crossover, you'll find the notes in your favourite sprays and you'll know the sprays which you can wear with which attars on your wrists. There is a massive trend in perfumery today towards Arabian notes, largely oudh, musks too and vanilla is really making inroads into male scents today. With a good grounding in these oils, you'll understand those perfumes much better.
Stop it, just stop it:) I've already got another 10 on the way, so that's 18 in a week!
 
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