Taming aggressive razors

[nickc]

Yes indeed. I only use one full pass and then it's just touch-ups in multiple different directions on each cheek and side of neck. Plus shaving upwards and down again over the chin a few times.

The touch-ups are what gives you a smooth skin - they're very focussed and the direction of cut is critical. The first pass is more general. I don't see the point of more than one full pass.

Agreed, one full pass and then touch-ups where needed. I have tried 2nd pass over entire face but now don't bother as the difference is minimal.

 

[R181]

The thing with disposable blades versus straights is that straights use much better steel, a thicker and more stable base of the blade and a hand sharpened and highly polished edge (to make up for its lack of industrially micro-level sharpness). While the disposable is sharper, it has the potential to cause more irritation. It's one of those counterintuitive things. I do also think that most straight shavers become hardened to a bit of razor burn, to an extent.

I think that there are 2 components that go into making an edge that shaves well. One is obviously sharpness and the other is smoothness. That goes for DE/SE and straight razor blades. You can have a super sharp blade that gives a harsh shave or one that is slightly less sharp and gives a smooth shave. I like the latter combination. You only need so much sharpness to shave but you need a smooth blade for comfort.

Considering everyone has a different skin of varying sensitivity you find people looking for a DE/SE blade that works for them. If you hone your own straight razors you have to come up with a method that produces the right combination of sharpness and smoothness for your face. That method may vary depending on the blade you are honing because steel composition and/or hardening varies.

If your shaving technique and lather are good then any of those types of blades will give you a smooth comfortable shave and about the same amount of irritation if any.

Been wet shaving on and off for 50 odd years so a little razor burn means little to me. OTH a face on fire is another animal altogether and happens very rarely.

Bob

 

[SammieM]

I think that there are 2 components that go into making an edge that shaves well. One is obviously sharpness and the other is smoothness. That goes for DE/SE and straight razor blades. You can have a super sharp blade that gives a harsh shave or one that is slightly less sharp and gives a smooth shave. I like the latter combination. You only need so much sharpness to shave but you need a smooth blade for comfort.

Considering everyone has a different skin of varying sensitivity you find people looking for a DE/SE blade that works for them. If you hone your own straight razors you have to come up with a method that produces the right combination of sharpness and smoothness for your face. That method may vary depending on the blade you are honing because steel composition and/or hardening varies.

If your shaving technique and lather are good then any of those types of blades will give you a smooth comfortable shave and about the same amount of irritation if any.

Been wet shaving on and off for 50 odd years so a little razor burn means little to me. OTH a face on fire is another animal altogether and happens very rarely.

Bob

I used to use lapping film and 0.1 micron diamond pasted balsa strop. The grit rating on that is 200k. The edge was laser sharp, but the shave was less than comfortable unless my technique was perfect (rarely at that time because I was just starting). Then I switched to Japanese natural stones and the sharpness is less, but the shaves are amazingly comfortable. You can’t even compare the two. There are plenty of other natural stones, but I chose Japanese. There are many that are as good, it is just that these stones have a wider range when used with nagura stones...

 

[R181]

I used to use lapping film and 0.1 micron diamond pasted balsa strop. The grit rating on that is 200k. The edge was laser sharp, but the shave was less than comfortable unless my technique was perfect (rarely at that time because I was just starting). Then I switched to Japanese natural stones and the sharpness is less, but the shaves are amazingly comfortable. You can’t even compare the two. There are plenty of other natural stones, but I chose Japanese. There are many that are as good, it is just that these stones have a wider range when used with nagura stones...

Yea, they can be too sharp which is a trap quite a few fall into. I just use Naniwa synthetic stones to 12K, then do laps on a hanging felt strop pasted with Puma green stick and finally stropping on linen and leather. There are a number of ways to get a smooth edge on a straight razor but it takes experimentation to fine what works for you.\

Bob