Road Trip to Devon and Cornwall

[DevonStan]

Glad you're under way and making progress. If you'd been at Buckfast Abbey this morning our paths might have crossed (you'd have known me as I was the one with a red rose in my lapel, standing under the clock tower).

It's been announced in the last day or so that Brixham's Dorman's Fish and Chip shop is in the final six in contention for the best F&C in the South West... hey, what about that then?

Listen out for the nightly rendition of 'Abide with me' at All Saints church. The famous hymn was written in Brixham in 1847 by the vicar of All Saints at that time, the Revd Henry Francis Lyte. He wrote it just weeks before he died of TB, after being inspired by the beauty of the sunset over the Bay from Berry Head. It's played every night at 8pm by the carillon (installed in church in 1928).

Try to get to Berry Head or Battery Gardens if the weather holds.

PS. You've probably spotted there's the Torbay Steam Fair on today...you might have noticed the traffic was EVEN worse than usual.....

however if it's any consolation (and it won't be) .. the Brixton Whippet's in town. A first for Torbay Steam Fair and an unusual sight on a rally field will be the appearance of a 1400 Class Steam Locomotive, No 1420, which belongs to the South Devon Railway (the one at Buckfastleigh...you know the one - with butterflies and otters). These locos used to run from Churston Station, only 200 yards up the road, to Brixham and were nicknamed the "Brixham Whippet". I sincerely hope you're not driving behind it when they move it out! If you are then I confidently predict you'll next visit Brixham in February, not August.

And speaking of steam locomotives, Tornado is/was at Dartmouth today. Hauling the Torbay Express.

 

[Burgundy]

Glad you're under way and making progress. If you'd been at Buckfast Abbey this morning our paths might have crossed (you'd have known me as I was the one with a red rose in my lapel, standing under the clock tower).

It's been announced in the last day or so that Brixham's Dorman's Fish and Chip shop is in the final six in contention for the best F&C in the South West... hey, what about that then?

Listen out for the nightly rendition of 'Abide with me' at All Saints church. The famous hymn was written in Brixham in 1847 by the vicar of All Saints at that time, the Revd Henry Francis Lyte. He wrote it just weeks before he died of TB, after being inspired by the beauty of the sunset over the Bay from Berry Head. It's played every night at 8pm by the carillon (installed in church in 1928).

Try to get to Berry Head or Battery Gardens if the weather holds.

PS. You've probably spotted there's the Torbay Steam Fair on today...you might have noticed the traffic was EVEN worse than usual.....

however if it's any consolation (and it won't be) .. the Brixton Whippet's in town. A first for Torbay Steam Fair and an unusual sight on a rally field will be the appearance of a 1400 Class Steam Locomotive, No 1420, which belongs to the South Devon Railway (the one at Buckfastleigh...you know the one - with butterflies and otters). These locos used to run from Churston Station, only 200 yards up the road, to Brixham and were nicknamed the "Brixham Whippet". I sincerely hope you're not driving behind it when they move it out! If you are then I confidently predict you'll next visit Brixham in February, not August.

And speaking of steam locomotives, Tornado is/was at Dartmouth today. Hauling the Torbay Express.

Berry Head was great (see photo). We had lunch at the place by the lido before going for a wander up there. Just been for a swim off the pebble beach by the western harbour wall and are now about to go in search of beer!

Traffic's been fine so fast. We were at Torquay by 9 this morning and there wasn't much between there, Paignton and Brixham. Tomorrow'll be a long stretch along to Fowey via the Eden Project and whatever else takes our fancy. I want to be on the road by 8.

 

[DevonStan]

Excellent! The photo's come out a treat too. You must have got it down to Boot's to get it developed pretty sharp.

Are you really sure about the Eden Project? Of the three people in the world that I know two of them didn't rate the place (especially considering what you pay to go in). I've boycotted it.......that'll teach 'em! Some of the gardens open to the public (National Trust or otherwise) can be cracking. Glendurgan runs right down to the waterside of the Helford River and so does Trebah (not NT), which is almost literally next door (used to be owned by Donald Healey (yes, THAT Donald Healey!) in the '60's). The American 29th Infantry Division left for the Normandy Landings from Trebah beach (accessible from the gardens and well worth the walk down).

The King Harry Ferry is also extremely adjacent to the aforementioned. It takes you across the river to the Roseland Peninsula. Once over the river and on the peninsula you're in hallowed territory. If you were the ex chairman of Aston Martin and fancied buying a hotel in a pretty harbourside town in Cornwall, where else would you look other than St.Mawes on the Roseland Peninsula? St Mawes is not the place to look for a bargain terraced house overlooking the sea. The locals aren't over the moon about what uber-wealthy incomers have done to the prices thereabouts...it's a lovely spot but there's something about not being able to get in the car park of your local due to it being full up with £50,000 or £150,000 's worth of Rangie or Porsche or Ferrari that gives them the 'ump for some reason.

St Just in Roseland has a, slightly famous, 13th C church that really does have to be seen if you're that way. The setting is rather splendid....to say the least.

If you do happen to be searching out slightly pricey (OK, let's be honest...extremely expensive) boutique style hotels for a romantic week in gorgeous, right on the sea, surroundings, then you're in luck. The south east coast of Roseland has them aplenty...not to mention those in St. Mawes itself. This could be your lucky day.

Keep up the good work. (and enjoy the beer too).

PS. I wondered where you had lunch as the nearest place to the lido is the Berry Head Hotel. If so then I would think (hope) you enjoyed it as it's obviously a nice place to be, and to have a bite to eat, on a sunny day. Can you believe it was built, (in the early 1900s) as a military hospital...to support the three Napoleonic war forts on Berry Head. But twenty years later, after the military gave it up, it was occupied by a certain Reverend Henry Francis Lyte...remember him from a few lines above? There were (still are, albeit disused) some Cold War bunker type places on Berry Head...in use up to 1964 apparently...looking for indications of nuclear activities...don't ask me how though.

 

[Burgundy]

Eden Project was as expected. Rammed full and somewhat underwhelming for the money (despite discounted advance booking and a student card!). Some interesting and thought-provoking sections, though, and the 'biodomes' were impressive.

Fowey was lovely (if a bit twee). We particularly liked crossing the estuary to Polruan and walking east along the SWCP to a couple of secluded bays, then watching the sunset before a drink at The Lugger Inn and hopping back on the ferry.

Today started with a pre-Full English brekkie run along the SWCP (in the opposite direction) followed by The Lost Gardens of Heligan. We strolled around and explored for about three hours and it's a place we'd return to for entertaining kids on an overcast day.

We then poked around Roseland as per the recommendation! Had lunch on a beach at Portscatho and carried on towards St Mawes after a swim. The church at St Just was definitely a highlight - as was the car ferry.

Quick dip in the hotel so-called spa, a couple of pints in a pub/bookshop full of trendy-looking kids, and a mediocre Thai meal. We hadn't researched or booked anywhere and we didn't fancy anything expensive/seafood-y. I almost wished we'd eaten at the hotel restaurant. Falmouth's a funny place.

Tomorrow's a busy day. She wants to go to the gardens at Trebah in the morning (the third in three days!) and I want to explore the Lizard Peninsula. Thinking about having dinner in Porthleven and getting to Penzance later in the evening, especially if it is as much of a dive as is claimed.

 

[DevonStan]

Good to see your report. I did tell you not to go to the Eden Project, but you wouldn't listen ....

The bays east of Polruan are Lantic and Lantivet.The fact that people have to walk more than 50 yards from their car to get there results in the absence of crowds. An especially good choice. Portscatho was another good spot. It was in the pub (Royal Standard) at, nearby, Gerrans...just along the road from Portscatho really...where the staff were speaking of the about the issues of house prices mentioned earlier?

Maybe, for visitors like us Falmouth is seen in a different light every time you go there. Sometimes a bit chavvy if you stop at the McDonalds on the way in. Industrial if you overlook the docks from above. Bright, cheerful and full of youngsters if you like to mix with students from the (relatively recent) university facilities. I suppose it caters for a variety of tastes and is certainly not a sleepy backwater, as you'll have noticed. For me the jury's still out how much we like it but but we'd quite likely return there. We had a "special" anniversary stay out of season in one of the nice hotels on Cliff Road. A bit posh for the likes of us but it made a change. (I'd still prefer to carry my own bags in from the car rather than have a bloke in a top hat offering to take them for us).

Trebah is, in my opinion, better than Glendurgan if you had to do just one. Although you could whizz round them both in three hours. You'll only get a taste of the Lizard in a few hours so probably best stop off at just a couple of the coves on the west side i.e. Poldhu Cove, Mullion Cove ...then I guess you really should whizz down to the Lizard Point just to say you've been as far south as you can go.

Cadgwith is a bit of a honeypot as it's quaint and pretty (and more to the point, Jenny Agutter lives there!!!!!). You have to pay a couple of quid to park in the car park and walk down into the village...but I would say it's worth it as you're so close to the place. Don't try to avoid the car park, there's virtually nowhere else.

Then whistle up the east side. St Keverne is a lovely little village...nothing outrageousely pretty but it's a "nice" place and we liked it rather a lot and there's a couple of half decent looking pubs in the square. There's even a bakery (as in where they actually still bake things) on the right as you enter the village with a plump and very Cornish lady baker surrounded by lovely looking (and smelling) items on trays...including pasties, of course. After St.Keverne make your way to the South Cafe in Manaccan. Nice lady, lovely premises, and some eminently edible cakes to go with your coffee. Then finish up in Helford, by the river. Eat at the Shipwright Arms and if it's sunny you can eat outside. Limited parking but well worth the effort. Had Bosahan gardens (pronounced BOZAIN) been open I'd have sent you there. It's the one with its own beach that you walk down to. But it's not.

I should have said....from Manaccan (the South Cafe)..rather than go straight up to the Shipwright Arms at Helford, go via St.Anthony in Meneage. You go (east/north east) via the lane that hugs the north side of Gillan Creek. (you turn left before you get to Carne...check the map - it's straightforward to follow). Definitely one of the more interesting roads you'll drive along. Bordering on the dramatic, in fact. The authorities wanted to close it permanently due to storm damage and categorize it as a bridle path but there was such an outcry they changed their minds and spent millions of pounds fixing it. So, it's your civic duty to use the road now that they've spent all that money . I have to say it's a bit narrow and I reiterate the bit about being able to reverse the car when you meet someone coming the other way...if there's any doubt about it, don't go that way, use the other route to St. Anthony. There - that's given you a challenge you can't refuse!

When I said "whistle up the east side", I didn't actually mean that. You wont' "whistle" anywhere on the central or eastern side of the Lizard as the lanes are ...well we've covered the lanes before.

In Porthleven you either eat in one of the "designer" places, or you can take fish and chips away from Rolands Happy Plaice in Shute Lane. Or you go in the Ship Inn pub on the far side of the harbour...not the Harbour pub opposite. Porthleven is going (has gone?) all foodie and posh . Something to do with the Rick Stein place on the harbourside I suppose. Porthleven was one of the places that got hit badly in the 2014 storms. Lots of clips on Youtube.

I'm sure Penzance will be absolutely and unforgettably splendid.

 

[LeeBot]

You'll have to send me a PM telling me what to warn him of if moving to Kirby.

Believe me - Kirkby is a much different place to West Kirkby. Much, much different.....Make sure your mate doesn't get mixed up.

 

[DevonStan]

Believe me - Kirkby is a much different place to West Kirkby. Much, much different.....Make sure your mate doesn't get mixed up.

Thanks, but it was neither Kirkby nor West Kirkby he's interested in. It's West Kirby, (without the "k") on the Wirral. . My reference to it above was...."dead keen on moving to West Kirby on the Wirral"..... His other half has a sister living there and he's been up there looking at property so I think he got the right one

Edit. Just had a further look myself and can see there's a place called Kirkby (with a "k") to the north of Liverpool - and then there's West Kirby, on the Wirrall. If it's these two you're comparing then, yes, I can see that there might be a difference.

 

[LeeBot]

That's the one's DevonStan. I always forget about the lack of a second k in West Kirby as Kirkby is pronounced without it as well.

 

[Burgundy]

Trebah Gardens in full waterproofs yesterday morning! Thoroughly enjoyed it. The beach onto the bay was picturesque (very clear water) and it was interesting to see another site that was connected to the D-Day Landings. It's on my list to research the connections properly when we get back (my knowledge is broad but clearly superficial!).

We then cloud dodged our way around Lizard. Almost persuaded her to go paddle boarding at Coverack but ended up swimming off Kynance Cove after a lunch feasting on the biggest pastie I've ever seen. Amazing memories being made for children but not a place you could drop your guard as a parent. The sun came
out and suddenly the scene was utterly gorgeous. Great place.

Mullion was impressive in its bleakness (could've just been the weather). I can see why their lifeboats were so unsuccessful - the waters look devilish. I'd love to see a full blown storm there - obviously from the comfort of stone walls and a log burner.

Porthleven looks as though it's about to become trendy. Imposing harbour walls and locals surfing on the beach. A couple of decent foodie options - Kota Kai took my fancy. Drove to Penzance via Marazion to watch the sun go down near St Michael's Mount.

I had very low expectations of Penzance and so wasn't too concerned at watching a couple of smackheads light up. We walked along Chapel St and had a couple of pints at The Turks Head before heading back along the promenade to the hotel. If we'd been there during the day, I quite liked the look of the lido but I couldn't say much else for Penzance as a destination. Apart from the beers, I mostly enjoyed Wikipedia-ing Admiral John Benbow and various (in)famous pirates.

Coffee this morning at 9ish in Mousehole. We were feeling a bit jaded from visiting 'sites' and so we sacked off St Michael's Mount and the Menack Theatre. We headed to Sennen Cove beach instead, while the weather was good, before walking towards Lands End along the SWCP. I was mostly interested in geeking out at an Iron Age hill fort and chatting to a volunteer at the coastguard lookout whilst zoning out from the tourist rat race.

We took the fabulous B3306 road - meeting only one other vehicle but several cows between St Just and St Ives. We detoured to Cape Cornwall and chatted to the NCI watchkeeper about the history of the various shipwrecks and, of course, the wildlife. If I were on my own, I'd've loved to go and tour around the tin mines and ancient sites (Mên-an-Tol etc) but I'll have to leave them for another trip. The OH wanted to get on to St Ives to check in and trawl round the various tat shops.

I enjoyed the Tate installations and had yet another ice cream (this time made in Zennor). I'm now on the beach enjoying the last of the sunshine while she continues to poke around the shops/no doubt gorge on fudge. She's probably on Right Move.

Time to find dinner recommendations. Tomorrow is to Newquay and the Boardmasters Festival where we'll had to go back to acting our age! The driving has been very easy so far but I'm taking nothing for granted.

Over and out.

 

[Nishy]

Trebah Gardens in full waterproofs yesterday morning! Thoroughly enjoyed it. The beach onto the bay was picturesque (very clear water) and it was interesting to see another site that was connected to the D-Day Landings. It's on my list to research the connections properly when we get back (my knowledge is broad but clearly superficial!).

We then cloud dodged our way around Lizard. Almost persuaded her to go paddle boarding at Coverack but ended up swimming off Kynance Cove after a lunch feasting on the biggest pastie I've ever seen. Amazing memories being made for children but not a place you could drop your guard as a parent. The sun came
out and suddenly the scene was utterly gorgeous. Great place.

Mullion was impressive in its bleakness (could've just been the weather). I can see why their lifeboats were so unsuccessful - the waters look devilish. I'd love to see a full blown storm there - obviously from the comfort of stone walls and a log burner.

Porthleven looks as though it's about to become trendy. Imposing harbour walls and locals surfing on the beach. A couple of decent foodie options - Kota Kai took my fancy. Drove to Penzance via Marazion to watch the sun go down near St Michael's Mount.

I had very low expectations of Penzance and so wasn't too concerned at watching a couple of smackheads light up. We walked along Chapel St and had a couple of pints at The Turks Head before heading back along the promenade to the hotel. If we'd been there during the day, I quite liked the look of the lido but I couldn't say much else for Penzance as a destination. Apart from the beers, I mostly enjoyed Wikipedia-ing Admiral John Benbow and various (in)famous pirates.

Coffee this morning at 9ish in Mousehole. We were feeling a bit jaded from visiting 'sites' and so we sacked off St Michael's Mount and the Menack Theatre. We headed to Sennen Cove beach instead, while the weather was good, before walking towards Lands End along the SWCP. I was mostly interested in geeking out at an Iron Age hill fort and chatting to a volunteer at the coastguard lookout whilst zoning out from the tourist rat race.

We took the fabulous B3306 road - meeting only one other vehicle but several cows between St Just and St Ives. We detoured to Cape Cornwall and chatted to the NCI watchkeeper about the history of the various shipwrecks and, of course, the wildlife. If I were on my own, I'd've loved to go and tour around the tin mines and ancient sites (Mên-an-Tol etc) but I'll have to leave them for another trip. The OH wanted to get on to St Ives to check in and trawl round the various tat shops.

I enjoyed the Tate installations and had yet another ice cream (this time made in Zennor). I'm now on the beach enjoying the last of the sunshine while she continues to poke around the shops/no doubt gorge on fudge. She's probably on Right Move.

Time to find dinner recommendations. Tomorrow is to Newquay and the Boardmasters Festival where we'll had to go back to acting our age! The driving has been very easy so far but I'm taking nothing for granted.

Over and out.

Wow sounds like you have been busy! Great read definitely has made me think about visiting more parts of our country before clicking on Expedia.

 

[vtmax]

Great beach near Newquay, Port Joke. Great swimming and fairly quiet. Been three times, love it.

 

[DevonStan]

Great beach near Newquay, Port Joke. Great swimming and fairly quiet. Been three times, love it.

You won't believe me, but I frightened myself at Port Joke. Ambled out across the sand to an entirely insignificant bit of the rocks on the right....it was simply a miniscule recess where the rocks just went in a few yards to form a bay no bigger than a bus-stop.. And whilst there, enjoying the peace and quiet and fabulous sea vista (not a single soul was about apart from the Mrs. - who chose not to accompany me in my ten yard seaward expedition ) the water came from nowhere and approached my feet in a somewhat threatening manner. In fact it filled up my little bus-stop so convincingly I had to decide, on the spur of the moment, do I continue standing here (in my trainers and socks) and wait for this minor tidal incursion to abate...or do I assess that the tide is actually coming in so fast that I really ought not to remain here. I took the latter option and splashed my way out with water up to my calfs and survived the trauma. But, suitably chastened, had to walk back to the car with three litres of sea water in each trainer. And some will know that the car park is about 27 miles from the beach. Was subsequently and sagely advised that "the tide comes in quickly at this time of year". They weren't Port Joking.

 

[vtmax]

Stan, Yes...it's quite a walk but its worth the reward. No Port Joking indeed!

 

[DevonStan]

Steady progress being made, Burgundy.

Can't believe it rained so much there, when we haven't seen rain for, what seems like, months. And it's only a two hour drive from there to here.

I forgot to tell you, when en route to Mullion Cove, to take the slip road on the right up to Mullion Cove Hotel. Handy little car park, coffee in the (rather imposing and impressive looking) hotel and fabulous views and a path down to the cove. Maybe next time.

Was I, or was I not correct in saying Pothleven has either got posh, or is almost there? Your interest in Kota is noted - there's a sister restaurant as well if my memory serves me. I would have taken the fish and chip option in Shute Lane and slummed it on the bench by the bus stop - but that might just say something about me that's best kept undisclosed. Maybe next time?

Apart from those spots you've mentioned, did you get to any of my aforementioned bits .... St. Anthony via Suicide Lane, Helford, via South Cafe,Jenny Agutters hang out, Lizard Point, St Keverne,..(with the place on the right with the jolly, rotund, Cornish baker ?)

The Chiropracter in town here (whose mortgage I contribute to due to various aches and pains) has in-laws who live in Zennor - he got married in Zennor Church. But I haven't been that far down for years...you've reminded me to rectify that next time we darken the doorstep of the Premier Inn in Helston (not forgetting the Sainsburys cooked brekkie!)

Don't forget the pasties in Hayle. Don't hold your breath if you visit Perranporth.

If you're going to Tintagel (and I'm not saying you should but the choice will be yours) then make sure you visit the Camelot Castle Hotel. It overlooks the throngs and hoardes climbing over the Tintagel ruins. It (the hotel) will afford you the opportunity to drink the most expensive cappuccino you've likely ever had in your life. (or maybe you do actually regularly pay £8.50 for two cups of the stuff). Fortunately it's good coffee AND you get some rather edible marshmallow thingies with it....and you bloody well need to at that price!! But, jesting aside, the hotel (owned by Mappin and Webb) is worth a visit. By my standards, it's rather grand but, unusually, the reception office has a brace of assorted, well kept and pampered dogs reclining on the floor...the owner's dogs in fact...he likes dogs and advertises in dog friendly places for people to bring their canines into their rooms. There's a strong and visible art connection (and collection) everywhere you look... there's an arty painted Aston Martin parked on the grass outside. It's just there for show. How many people paint their Aston Martin in the style of their art and leave it out in the Cornwall rain all year round? The fella whose art is on every wall (and who lives at the hotel and kindly contributes substantially to the hotels bills as well) goes by the name Ted Stourton...who seems to amble round the place shaking hands with customers and enquiring of their well being. I think he's a bit of a character.

Perhaps you'll like Boscastle if you get out (and feed the parking machine) and wander down to the area that was devastated by floods in 2004. Or you might fancy picking up some occult trinket in the Museum of Witchcraft and Magic. I actually didn't feed the machine or buy a witches broom.

When we went to Padstow in the '70s it was bordering on the pleasant. I'm sure it's still appealing...but not to me. The bits either side of it are fine but I won't be stopping by the town centre any time soon.

I'm sure you'll get some pointers (if you still seek any suggestions) by those members who hail from further up the coast. I'm no authority on anywhere but in particular only have a very general idea of what goes on along the north/north west coast having not visited in depth for ages...so my race is run.

Good wishes. Hope to get further updates in due course.