Car trouble

TobyC

Patriot
They won’t let me raise a complaint so Mrs Saint will speak to them at Skoda tomorrow. Another issue I had last time was the service manager told me that while it was only half way up the dipstick on a warm engine it would be up the top end. LOL. Doubling on a warm engine. It’s just that that makes you loose confidence in them.
Who won't let you?
 

Blackland Razors

Forum GOD!
Artisan
Another issue I had last time was the service manager told me that while it was only half way up the dipstick on a warm engine it would be up the top end. LOL. Doubling on a warm engine. It’s just that that makes you loose confidence in them.
Just for clarity, moving twice as far up the dipstick measurement interval does not mean that the volume in the engine has doubled. The difference between the top and bottom mark on the dipstick isn't standardized, but it's usually ~1-1.5qts/L. Oil expands around 5% when hot. So depending on the oil capacity of your car, it could expand to close to the top mark when hot. Yes, that math doesn't precisely check out as you'd need a 10qt capacity for that to be exactly true. But it's pretty close. A 4.5L capacity filled midway between the marks when would get you ~4.2L when hot which would be 70% toward the top mark. So when eyeballing the measurements, his statement is not as far off as you might suspect.
 

Northam Saint

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Just for clarity, moving twice as far up the dipstick measurement interval does not mean that the volume in the engine has doubled. The difference between the top and bottom mark on the dipstick isn't standardized, but it's usually ~1-1.5qts/L. Oil expands around 5% when hot. So depending on the oil capacity of your car, it could expand to close to the top mark when hot. Yes, that math doesn't precisely check out as you'd need a 10qt capacity for that to be exactly true. But it's pretty close. A 4.5L capacity filled midway between the marks when would get you ~4.2L when hot which would be 70% toward the top mark. So when eyeballing it the measurements, his statement is not as far off as you might suspect.
I’ve topped it up with 1/2 litre and it’s to the top now. It’s a 4 litre capacity.
 

Dipesh

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Staff member
Do you know what’s failing on the turbo? Im
Intrigued to why they are chucking turbos on it (yes I understand warranty and the dealer won’t be paying).

Depending on why the turbo has failed would drive the decision linked to your engine oil.
 

Northam Saint

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Do you know what’s failing on the turbo? Im
Intrigued to why they are chucking turbos on it (yes I understand warranty and the dealer won’t be paying).

Depending on why the turbo has failed would drive the decision linked to your engine oil.
All they have said it’s siezed and needs a new one. This time they added that the actuator had failed and caused the turbo to seize. Suppose for the garage these are earners.
 

Dipesh

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Staff member
All they have said it’s siezed and needs a new one. This time they added that the actuator had failed and caused the turbo to seize. Suppose for the garage these are earners.
ah I understand but I don’t believe they are making sense. I know that dealers will change the whole turbo if the electronic actuator fails as they don’t know how to repair them. I have a good friend who has a tidy business fixing things.
A failed actuator causes your EML to turn on as it can’t regulate the boost. It wouldn’t seize your turbo.

giving them the benefit of doubt, you hope rev3of the turbo is more reliable and sorts your issue.

Regarding the oil, a bit does come out when you change turbos but not much. Just a bit in the lines and what’s in the core. I’d keep an eye on it, it’s fairly new so it could just be that the rings haven’t sealed 100% yet and it burning it a little. That’s normal.

The above is all guessing though, I hate to be one of those know it all’s that diagnose and advise over the internet. If you they are messing you about then a complaint is the right thing to do.
 

Northam Saint

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ah I understand but I don’t believe they are making sense. I know that dealers will change the whole turbo if the electronic actuator fails as they don’t know how to repair them. I have a good friend who has a tidy business fixing things.
A failed actuator causes your EML to turn on as it can’t regulate the boost. It wouldn’t seize your turbo.

giving them the benefit of doubt, you hope rev3of the turbo is more reliable and sorts your issue.

Regarding the oil, a bit does come out when you change turbos but not much. Just a bit in the lines and what’s in the core. I’d keep an eye on it, it’s fairly new so it could just be that the rings haven’t sealed 100% yet and it burning it a little. That’s normal.

The above is all guessing though, I hate to be one of those know it all’s that diagnose and advise over the internet. If you they are messing you about then a complaint is the right thing to do.
And that is the problem not knowing much about turbos and them realising that. My car to the dealer is a cash cow, they don’t care how many times it fails as they get what £2k for a turbo ? I have topped it up and given it a run to pick Mrs Saint up from the hospital a 18 mile round trip. I’ll keep an eye while the wheels start turning on another complaint.
 

Dipesh

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Staff member
And that is the problem not knowing much about turbos and them realising that. My car to the dealer is a cash cow, they don’t care how many times it fails as they get what £2k for a turbo ? I have topped it up and given it a run to pick Mrs Saint up from the hospital a 18 mile round trip. I’ll keep an eye while the wheels start turning on another complaint.
It’ll probably be an agreed about if labour and reimbursement for the turbo but without know how many hours allocated you don’t know if it will be a cash cow or not.

tolerances on oil consumption should be in its manual or somewhere on the internet so worth getting familiar with that to aid your monitoring.
 

Northam Saint

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It’ll probably be an agreed about if labour and reimbursement for the turbo but without know how many hours allocated you don’t know if it will be a cash cow or not.

tolerances on oil consumption should be in its manual or somewhere on the internet so worth getting familiar with that to aid your monitoring.
Sorry begs the question, do new cars with engines like this use more oil than say cars of ten years ago or older.
 

Dipesh

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Staff member
Sorry begs the question, do new cars with engines like this use more oil than say cars of ten years ago or older.
It can be quite random if I’m honest and not like the old days. Once bedded in, it’ll just stop. Some don’t use a drop and some use oil throughout their working life which is fine as long as it’s in tolerance.

It is however just speculating, they’ve had your turbo off so it will loose some oil naturally. As it would a bit of coolant too, depending on how hot the car was when they took it off.
 

Northam Saint

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It can be quite random if I’m honest and not like the old days. Once bedded in, it’ll just stop. Some don’t use a drop and some use oil throughout their working life which is fine as long as it’s in tolerance.

It is however just speculating, they’ve had your turbo off so it will loose some oil naturally. As it would a bit of coolant too, depending on how hot the car was when they took it off.
To me what has happened is they have changed the unit and it’s what has drained off that has reduced the level. I’d imagine it wa swarm when the removed the unit and it may of been sat with the unit off for a couple of days. They knew it had seized the day after it went in and the fitting once in was very quick too.

A3 didn’t use any oil, neither did the Yeti. It is one of them things I always check when I wash the car.
 
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