Review Bullgoose Evolution: First impressions

Haiku

Well-Known Member
Great review darkbulb. You're right, your comments about the finish are rather obsessive and I for one am thankful for it.

I have an Evolution, as well as a like-new looking Darwin Standard with what looks like a new box. I can attest to the fact that the Evolution really is a pretty close copy of the original.

I have a strong magnifying glass I had to look at the Evolution's handle under magnification and a strong light to see the streaks and marks you showed in your macro photos. For me, and I think for the vast majority of people, the fit and finish would be considered to be just great.

As far as the length of the handle goes, it's longer than a Gillette superspeed which makes it pretty much a standard sized handle in my view. Like you, I find the handle is very comfortable and the razor really is easy to use.

So far, every reviewer seems to love the way the Evolution shaves and while it is a milder razor than the Darwin, it does indeed re-create the experience of shaving with an original Darwin Standard. I would observe that one of the things that makes the experience of an Evolution shave so much like a Darwin shave is the sound. It's as loud as one can want, and the feel of the razor in one's hand and the sound of the shave does recreate the experience of a Darwin shave. Again, it's much milder than my Darin but that's by no means a criticism. The Darwin is an aggressive razor by any standard.

I really like the finish and yes, it is a tad "industrial" but for me, that's its charm. If it were highly polished it would read like a copy of the Darin. As it is, it reads like a tribute to the Darwin. And a fine tribute it is. Others will of course think differently.

Were I If I were interested in a smoother or more refined finish, I would spend a few minutes with some extra-fine steel wool and give it a once over. I've done that with an Ikon stainless steel razor head in order to achieve a satin finish and in less than 5 minutes the shine was gone and I had a beautiful satin finish on my razor's head that matched the satin finish on a stainless steel handle. I might at some point do the same with my Evolution, and I would be surprised if it took more than 5 or 10 minutes with a small bit of extra fine steel wool to get a finish like the Wolfman you pictured.

Thank you very much indeed for taking the time to post such a detailed and thoughtful review. It was after reading your review that I bought mine and I'm very glad I did.
 
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p.b

Forum GOD!
I think stretching the handle in only one of the sections unbalances the proportions.

I also think that it's unbelievably cynical to offer this XL handle only in brass. If I'd bought the stainless steel finish razor and really wanted a longer handle I'd be incredibly pissed off at having to fork out for a complete razor and in a material I don't like.
 

Slant_Fan

Über Member
Many thanks to @Darkbulb for the comprehensive review on fit, finish and shaving characteristics. I was really looking forward to this razor when I first heard about it, but was disappointed when I read of the short handle, and other reports that the finish leaves something to be desired. I was also put off by the reports I'd read previously that the Asylum Evolution is a mild razor. Your review on the shave has me rethinking buying my own copy.
 

Holyzeus

Forum GOD!
Many thanks to @Darkbulb for the comprehensive review on fit, finish and shaving characteristics. I was really looking forward to this razor when I first heard about it, but was disappointed when I read of the short handle, and other reports that the finish leaves something to be desired. I was also put off by the reports I'd read previously that the Asylum Evolution is a mild razor. Your review on the shave has me rethinking buying my own copy.
I've just bought and sold one.
The finish on mine had none of the defects that Db's had, that said it is a brushed finish and that gives it a different look to a Darwin. I like the looks.
The handle is very short, I know they do an XL but not in which finishes.
The shave is mild but efficient and in my case (YMMV) more aggressive than the TR2 and Weber
 
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Str8Mug

Forum GOD!
I think stretching the handle in only one of the sections unbalances the proportions.

I also think that it's unbelievably cynical to offer this XL handle only in brass. If I'd bought the stainless steel finish razor and really wanted a longer handle I'd be incredibly pissed off at having to fork out for a complete razor and in a material I don't like.
Fair point. But it is nice.....:happy:
 

mr. smith

Forum GOD!
I just received the Black Oxide Evolution and used it tonight for the first time. During my first pass, I noticed that there was more blade feel on one side so I gave a close look at the blade and top cap only to find that one edge of the blade was hanging out a bit more on one side. I ended up having to loosen the handle a bit to realign the blade. I finished my shave; by the way, it felt mild but not too mild and was very efficient.

I used a Personna Lab Blue blade for the shave. After cleaning the razor; I took out a brand new Rapira Swedish Super Steel blade to pop in and check the alignment. I saw that one side of the blade was hanging out a bit more just as before with the Personna. I had to fiddle with it a bit to get it lined up straight.

I am wondering if I've got a razor that wasn't machined correctly. I've never had a razor where I had to "play" with the blade to get it aligned properly. I would really like to hear your thoughts on this. Thank you
 

Slant_Fan

Über Member
I just received a SS Evo day before yesterday. Purchased from the original owner. I've only shaved with it once, and was pleased with the shave. It is not as mild as a Feather AS-D2, and not as aggressive as say a Timeless .68 SB. The satin finish is good, though not on par with an ATT, as there are some visible machining marks, but very faint.
I checked the blade alignment just now, and found that mine lines up pretty much equal side to side with no extra effort beyond tightening the handle/head. OTOH, I can move the blade side to side slightly if I have the cap a bit loose. IME this is not unusual with 2 or 3 piece razors, and on my Merkur 137 I'd not infrequently adjust the alignment by holding the ends of the blade as I tightened the cap down. On some razors I've had to watch that, and not on others.
The Tradere was the first DE I ever had that was machined so that the blade posts/tabs were perfectly machined to fit the blade cutouts, and the alignment spot on.
BTW, I got a Razorock Stealth DLC and the alignment was off. I went to his website and he speaks to that and says that is part of the design, and to ignore it. I did and got great shaves. YMMV.
From the Razorock site https://www.italianbarber.com/products/razorock-stealth-slant-razor-with-stand-black
" The most noticeable change is how the blade appears when seated and locked down. The blade does NOT sit parallel to the edge of the top cap (by design!), you can see this clearly illustrated in picture #4. This key design element allows the razors to be both efficient and smooth, by eliminating unnecessary blade flare."
 

mr. smith

Forum GOD!
Thank you for that. At least I know that it's not my razor; I just need to make sure that I've got the blade lined up well before shaving. I'll keep at it, maybe I'm holding the razor in a bad way when tightening the handle; I'll have to play with it to see what works best.
 

Haiku

Well-Known Member
I just received the Black Oxide Evolution and used it tonight for the first time. During my first pass, I noticed that there was more blade feel on one side so I gave a close look at the blade and top cap only to find that one edge of the blade was hanging out a bit more on one side. I ended up having to loosen the handle a bit to realign the blade. I finished my shave; by the way, it felt mild but not too mild and was very efficient.

I used a Personna Lab Blue blade for the shave. After cleaning the razor; I took out a brand new Rapira Swedish Super Steel blade to pop in and check the alignment. I saw that one side of the blade was hanging out a bit more just as before with the Personna. I had to fiddle with it a bit to get it lined up straight.

I am wondering if I've got a razor that wasn't machined correctly. I've never had a razor where I had to "play" with the blade to get it aligned properly. I would really like to hear your thoughts on this. Thank you

I find that all my three piece razors - including my Darwin Standard - need to be fiddled with a bit to get the blade to sit proper.y. That's not a defect, it's just he way these razors all seem to work.

There are a few tricks though: put he top cap on a flat surface such as a table, put the blade in, then stack the bottom plate and then slowly insert the handle and turn it. The blade will often adjust itself. That technique works well with my Tradere. The other way that woks for me is from some instructions that came with a Barbasol razor: load the blade but don't tighten down the handle. Hold the handle parallel to the floor, and tighten the handle. I generally shake the razor a bit to ensure that the blade is loose before I tighten it down. This works great on two piece razors such as a Barbasol or a Merkur. It's a bit fiddly with a three piece, but it works well for me using the Evolution.
 

bazemk1979

Veteran
View attachment 11917


FYI--The Evolution is now available in solid brass with a longer handle. Handle is 93 mm long. Weight is 95 gm total. I like the look. Thoughts?
There is no doubt the razor looks better than the Darwin itself ( that's my opinion and maybe others don't agree), for sure the quality and durability is way above the Darwin ( no debate on this), fit and finish is miles ahead of the Darwin ( no debate for this either)

What I want to know is why the forums FS sections are over run with these razors, whats wrong with the razor? I have a feeling it don't shave as good as it looks. You can say well its always YMMV, not when you see 20 of them in the FS section.... I have feeling performance wise the razor flops, no doubt the razor looks good and the only reason I see people selling it a lot is because looks is not the problem.
 

Holyzeus

Forum GOD!
20? Not seen those figures..
Maybe the handle, its bloomin short. The whole razor is something like 85mm.
 

mr. smith

Forum GOD!
I find that all my three piece razors - including my Darwin Standard - need to be fiddled with a bit to get the blade to sit proper.y. That's not a defect, it's just he way these razors all seem to work.

There are a few tricks though: put he top cap on a flat surface such as a table, put the blade in, then stack the bottom plate and then slowly insert the handle and turn it. The blade will often adjust itself. That technique works well with my Tradere. The other way that woks for me is from some instructions that came with a Barbasol razor: load the blade but don't tighten down the handle. Hold the handle parallel to the floor, and tighten the handle. I generally shake the razor a bit to ensure that the blade is loose before I tighten it down. This works great on two piece razors such as a Barbasol or a Merkur. It's a bit fiddly with a three piece, but it works well for me using the Evolution.
Thank you for the suggestions. I will give them a try and continue to work at it. I do like the way it shaves so it'll totally be worth it to get the razor load down.
 
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