Phoenix and Beau: Vegan soap testers wanted

[Dr Watson]

Used it again this morning. I overloaded the brush yesterday so went easy this time and managed to underload, had to go back after one pass and start again... Entirely my fault, I'm not used to this 30mm brush yet

Another good performance, it is missing that extra bit of slip your standard formula provides but otherwise perfectly acceptable... Post shave it felt slightly drying today so I had to use a bit of L'Occitane Cade balm, this is not unusual for me I tend to find most vegan soaps have this effect on my face (Nuavia was offender #1)

In a nutshell: For me its not as good as the standard P&B formula but pretty much exactly what I would expect of a high quality vegan soap. Selling 60g pucks around the £6 mark would put it in direct competition with Haslinger, now I must be honest I would choose the Haslinger every time but I don't have vegan requirements... For those who do this could be just the ticket.

Edit to add: Very big thank you to Kerry/P&B for the opportunity to test this soap

 

[Looney12345]

Morning gents,

So, my final shave with the Rockwell 6C was yesterday. On plate 4, a fresh Astra SP loaded. I still had a little irritation on my neck outstanding from the shave on plate 6 a couple of days prior. Normally I wouldn’t shave whilst I was still irritated at the risk of making it worse, but I wanted to get a final shave in before sending it off today (which I’ve done, it’s on its way to @ManicDee so will be with him tomorrow).

Also the first use of the P&B vegan soap. I pressed this into my scuttle, to be able to pick up the soap on my brush as if I was loading from the tub. 30 seconds of brush loading which is what I do with all of my soaps. I am an exclusive non tallow shaver. I can’t stand the smell of tallow, so my line-up is exclusively without that ingredient. The bulk of my collection is Wickham 1912, but I also have MDC and a couple of others that get thrown into the mix when they tickle my fancy.

The first pass lather was decent, the brush had picked up loads of soap after blooming whilst I was in the shower and it went on nicely. I struggled a little to get a nice thick lather though, it was thick enough, but not as thick as I’m used to using the same technique as I would with my other soaps. The lather felt reasonably protective, not HUGELY slick. I went to lather up for the second pass, the brush still seemingly full of soap, but I just couldn’t build up a quality lather, it would start dissipating quite quickly after application. There could have been a bit too much water left on my face after my first pass rinse, but I didn’t feel like it was any different to normal. A bit disappointing to be honest. That said, I’ll be giving it a go with a drier brush next time as I feel this could be the kicker, we shall see.

On to the shave itself, it was a decent two pass shave, I was left with a few weepers and the irritation on my neck was aggravated as expected. I was going to buy one of these razors, I had one lined up and everything, but have now decided it isn’t for me. I have other razors that give good results every time, this razor, I’ve had a couple of irritating shaves, so for that reason, I’m out. Thank you very much to @Rowlers for the opportunity though, it’s been fun!

Oh yeah, I forgot to say, this was the first use of a rather funky handle as well! I picked this handle up recently and thought, what on earth am I thinking, it’s mad! Well actually, attaching it to the razor head I was pleasantly surprised. I really like it! It’s tactile and feels ergonomic, it’s a good length and the colour is a bit of fun! I’ve attached a couple of pictures of the two sides of the handle so you can see it in a bit more detail.

Have a good Monday gents!

 

[phoenixandbeau]

Morning gents,

So, my final shave with the Rockwell 6C was yesterday. On plate 4, a fresh Astra SP loaded. I still had a little irritation on my neck outstanding from the shave on plate 6 a couple of days prior. Normally I wouldn’t shave whilst I was still irritated at the risk of making it worse, but I wanted to get a final shave in before sending it off today (which I’ve done, it’s on its way to @ManicDee so will be with him tomorrow).

Also the first use of the P&B vegan soap. I pressed this into my scuttle, to be able to pick up the soap on my brush as if I was loading from the tub. 30 seconds of brush loading which is what I do with all of my soaps. I am an exclusive non tallow shaver. I can’t stand the smell of tallow, so my line-up is exclusively without that ingredient. The bulk of my collection is Wickham 1912, but I also have MDC and a couple of others that get thrown into the mix when they tickle my fancy.

The first pass lather was decent, the brush had picked up loads of soap after blooming whilst I was in the shower and it went on nicely. I struggled a little to get a nice thick lather though, it was thick enough, but not as thick as I’m used to using the same technique as I would with my other soaps. The lather felt reasonably protective, not HUGELY slick. I went to lather up for the second pass, the brush still seemingly full of soap, but I just couldn’t build up a quality lather, it would start dissipating quite quickly after application. There could have been a bit too much water left on my face after my first pass rinse, but I didn’t feel like it was any different to normal. A bit disappointing to be honest. That said, I’ll be giving it a go with a drier brush next time as I feel this could be the kicker, we shall see.

On to the shave itself, it was a decent two pass shave, I was left with a few weepers and the irritation on my neck was aggravated as expected. I was going to buy one of these razors, I had one lined up and everything, but have now decided it isn’t for me. I have other razors that give good results every time, this razor, I’ve had a couple of irritating shaves, so for that reason, I’m out. Thank you very much to @Rowlers for the opportunity though, it’s been fun!

Oh yeah, I forgot to say, this was the first use of a rather funky handle as well! I picked this handle up recently and thought, what on earth am I thinking, it’s mad! Well actually, attaching it to the razor head I was pleasantly surprised. I really like it! It’s tactile and feels ergonomic, it’s a good length and the colour is a bit of fun! I’ve attached a couple of pictures of the two sides of the handle so you can see it in a bit more detail.

Have a good Monday gents!

Thanks @Looney12345 hopefully you'll give the vegan another go and, what I've found, is like our tallow, it's a thirsty soap and enjoys a good amount of water. I face lather with my synthetic that has been soaked in my sink and get heaps of thick and creamy lather. Give it another whirl if you can and see how you get on. Thanks again! Kerry.

 

[Looney12345]

Thanks @Looney12345 hopefully you'll give the vegan another go and, what I've found, is like our tallow, it's a thirsty soap and enjoys a good amount of water. I face lather with my synthetic that has been soaked in my sink and get heaps of thick and creamy lather. Give it another whirl if you can and see how you get on. Thanks again! Kerry.

I'll definitely give it another go Kerry, not fair to evaluate on a "one and done" basis. That's what surprised me a little with the last shave, I had read that it's thirsty so had no concerns about using a soaked brush (that had been given two or three flicks to expel most the water but leave it thoroughly damp), the soap was bloomed and my face was damp/a little wet for both passes. It was how the lather dissipated on the second pass that confused me a little, especially with the "long" (30secs) loading time. I'll have my next shave with it again though and see how I get on and report back.

 

[phoenixandbeau]

I'll definitely give it another go Kerry, not fair to evaluate on a "one and done" basis. That's what surprised me a little with the last shave, I had read that it's thirsty so had no concerns about using a soaked brush (that had been given two or three flicks to expel most the water but leave it thoroughly damp), the soap was bloomed and my face was damp/a little wet for both passes. It was how the lather dissipated on the second pass that confused me a little, especially with the "long" (30secs) loading time. I'll have my next shave with it again though and see how I get on and report back.

Thanks @Looney12345 and yes, that is certainly a little odd regarding the dissipation. Naturally YMMV but it isn't something I've ever experienced with the formula. Nothing but pots and pots of creamy, thick lather Anyhow, please let me know how you get and hopefully you'll get a better second shave.

Thanks again,

Kerry.

 

[Nishy]

Used the non tallow again yesterday and this morning I used the non tallow on the left and tallow on the right. The tallow I used was from the TSR tester sample you sent a few years back, which to be honest blew me away.

Anyway back to business. Obviously YMMV etc etc. I found the non tallow to be less slick and less cushioned than its tallow cousin. It also requires a longer load (no elastic nature when building) and struggles to remain stable on the second pass. It peaks well but with less of a yoghurt consistency than the tallow. I had to reload for the second pass otherwise it would have dissipated (I have only used badger brushes so far). The lather is still decent but it isn't one I would personally purchase. I would be looking for greater slickness and more cushion to merit it being amongst my top 5, which includes your tallow version. Post shave feel again is decent, and slightly less heavy than the tallow, yet I have no oily skin issues when using the tallow. My favourite non tallow soap is currently MdC, which again IMO is superior. I'm not sure if the non tallow is more susceptible to hard water, but loading has definitely been the biggest issue. If using a milder razor the lather qualities are suffice for me.

 

[phoenixandbeau]

Thanks @Nishy please keep the feedback coming, chaps.

 

[Looney12345]

Used the non tallow again yesterday and this morning I used the non tallow on the left and tallow on the right. The tallow I used was from the TSR tester sample you sent a few years back, which to be honest blew me away.

Anyway back to business. Obviously YMMV etc etc. I found the non tallow to be less slick and less cushioned than its tallow cousin. It also requires a longer load (no elastic nature when building) and struggles to remain stable on the second pass. It peaks well but with less of a yoghurt consistency than the tallow. I had to reload for the second pass otherwise it would have dissipated (I have only used badger brushes so far). The lather is still decent but it isn't one I would personally purchase. I would be looking for greater slickness and more cushion to merit it being amongst my top 5, which includes your tallow version. Post shave feel again is decent, and slightly less heavy than the tallow, yet I have no oily skin issues when using the tallow. My favourite non tallow soap is currently MdC, which again IMO is superior. I'm not sure if the non tallow is more susceptible to hard water, but loading has definitely been the biggest issue. If using a milder razor the lather qualities are suffice for me.

This is a better articulated version of my own experience I also have very hard water.

 

[Lann]

Had my second shave with the sample you provided - @phoenixandbeau Kerry - this morning and had yet another great shave. Gave my Brush a good soaking and yet again I was faced with a mountain of lather that I found to provide plenty of cushion and slickness. My face was left with a great post shave feel and I - once again - declined to use any post shave balms or lotions in order to give myself a real opportunity to judge the impact of this soap on my skin.

This shave only reaffirmed my impressions gained from the first shave that this is a very good soap and I would certainly want to add scented varieties to my collection of soaps.

I was interested, though, to hear both @Nishy and @Looney12345 give their impressions and was struck that their experience of the lather this soap produces as being so different to my own. I know that people's skin can react in many weird and wonderful ways when faced with the same product, so trying to produce a soap that meets absolutely everyone's needs is a virtual impossibility. I do live in a soft water region of Northern Ireland, however, and maybe that is significant when trying to account for the different experiences?

 

[Burry]

I've had a few goes at it now. Still very pleased with it (face lathering, synthetic brush, hard water). I generally do 2 passes with touch ups and it loads pretty easily for that. It can take plenty of water and I find it needs it, otherwise it's not as slick as it can be, but with enough water it's very slick. Cushion is not as good as the tallow soap, but I'm not complaining; it's still excellent. I'm finding the post shave to be stunning, it's not heavy or greasy, and my skin feels great. This is a real plus for me. It doesn't make the mounds of lather that the tallow soap can, but that's fine - it makes more than enough. I'm still thinking this is an excellent formula.
Edit : I take it back, it makes loads of lather. I'm impressed with this

 

[Electrif]

1st try with the sample (very generous portion)
Pressed about 2 thumbnail portions into my temporary lathering bowl, 'borrowed' from my hotel restaurant. Lathered easily with a Bodyshop synthetic. It is quite thirsty and gave a stable lather. The slickness and cushioning is a definite improvement on the original prototype formula. I didn't like the base scent so will be interesting how the proposed scent profiles will cope with it. Post feel was pretty good with no drying.
A 1st class effort Kerry.

 

[phoenixandbeau]

Thanks so far everyone, please keep the feedback coming and lets see those comments.

@Lann we have very hard water in Hitchin, Hertfordshire and I generate a storm of lather every time I use the vegan. I need everyones feedback to understand how the formula sits and performs for folk.

 

[phoenixandbeau]

1st try with the sample (very generous portion)
Pressed about 2 thumbnail portions into my temporary lathering bowl, 'borrowed' from my hotel restaurant. Lathered easily with a Bodyshop synthetic. It is quite thirsty and gave a stable lather. The slickness and cushioning is a definite improvement on the original prototype formula. I didn't like the base scent so will be interesting how the proposed scent profiles will cope with it. Post feel was pretty good with no drying.
A 1st class effort Kerry.

Thank you @Electrif, scent wise our current short list for market is as follows:
1) Cedarwood | Juniper
2) Bay | Lime
3) Lavender | Sweet Orange
4) Rosemary | Eucalyptus

 

[Mr Bigmem]

Ok so first shave with the soap tonight. I thought i'd give it something to work on so I had 3 day growth. I live in north london and we've got very hard water so this is always interesting to me if soaps can work with our water.

So went with my tried and tested prep. Face washed with my Wickhams glycerin face soap and hot towel. I decided to use my suribachi scuttle, hot tap water in the base I pushed just over a thumb nail amount slightly into off centre in. With my soaked but dripped out tuxedo brush I got to work. I use a method that never fails me to dial in the water with adding drops as I go first getting a sticky glue type pre lather, then adding more and more water and whipping to get a bigger build and volume to my lather. Well it had no problems with my water and the density and colour are very good. At this I have to call out what has been bothering me with this soap since I received it, seems to have caught a few of the other testers as well and that is 'the scent of this unscented soap' I know the EO or fragrances in the final product will take away from it but its a very funky weird smell. I know its not scentless but IMO as it currently smells you'd be hard pressed to find many people who would want to buy it as a sensitive unscented soap. At first I likened it to the lanolin woolly smell of the P&B unscented but its a lil more weird. I'm not sure how high a percentage you'll have to hit in with your scents to mask/mute this smell Kerry and i'd be concerned the high levels needed for the scents would change the soap and its consistency.
Ok so back to the shave, I had enough lather for 4 passes and touch ups. Nice cushion, really high residual slickness/slip and i'd go as far as to say equal to the P&B tallow soaps. For me this did however then cause another issue In the form of oil cling on my DE blade. The slip here is not actual tallow fats but the superfated castor oil, glycine and other oils. I feel this would not cause a problem for SR shavers as the blade can be whipped after each pass but for my DE's and SE's it will oil up the blade, which then meant I had a nice slick feel but I wasn't actually getting a close shave.

So I finished off with my full on skin kindness test and squeezed out the remaining lather into my hands and massaged into my neck and face as a soap pack lol. I jumped in the bath and let the lather sit there for my 20min soak before washing off. Post shave feel very good, no drying which i'd expect from a soap with no coconut oil, but it was somewhat on the tacky side again due to the superfated oils etc.

In conclusion I think its a good soap being vegan, and I near exclusively use vegan soaps and wouldn't call 90% of the high end loved by all vegan soaps as good.
Would I buy it all relates to how the superfats/oils are dialed down to improve how the residual slickness is created in the shave. And finally how the smell changes once the soap is scented.

I'm going to have 3 more shaves with the soap and report back. I'll be going to use my Oneblade, my General and my go to cart of Gilette Fusion.

Once again thank you for the chance to try this soap Kerry @phoenixandbeau I think its very close to getting up into my top 3 vegan soaps, i'd love to try it once scented to see how it completes the full package but would also love those oils dialed down a tad.

 

[phoenixandbeau]

Ok so first shave with the soap tonight. I thought i'd give it something to work on so I had 3 day growth. I live in north london and we've got very hard water so this is always interesting to me if soaps can work with our water.

So went with my tried and tested prep. Face washed with my Wickhams glycerin face soap and hot towel. I decided to use my suribachi scuttle, hot tap water in the base I pushed just over a thumb nail amount slightly into off centre in. With my soaked but dripped out tuxedo brush I got to work. I use a method that never fails me to dial in the water with adding drops as I go first getting a sticky glue type pre lather, then adding more and more water and whipping to get a bigger build and volume to my lather. Well it had no problems with my water and the density and colour are very good. At this I have to call out what has been bothering me with this soap since I received it, seems to have caught a few of the other testers as well and that is 'the scent of this unscented soap' I know the EO or fragrances in the final product will take away from it but its a very funky weird smell. I know its not scentless but IMO as it currently smells you'd be hard pressed to find many people who would want to buy it as a sensitive unscented soap. At first I likened it to the lanolin woolly smell of the P&B unscented but its a lil more weird. I'm not sure how high a percentage you'll have to hit in with your scents to mask/mute this smell Kerry and i'd be concerned the high levels needed for the scents would change the soap and its consistency.
Ok so back to the shave, I had enough lather for 4 passes and touch ups. Nice cushion, really high residual slickness/slip and i'd go as far as to say equal to the P&B tallow soaps. For me this did however then cause another issue In the form of oil cling on my DE blade. The slip here is not actual tallow fats but the superfated castor oil, glycine and other oils. I feel this would not cause a problem for SR shavers as the blade can be whipped after each pass but for my DE's and SE's it will oil up the blade, which then meant I had a nice slick feel but I wasn't actually getting a close shave.

So I finished off with my full on skin kindness test and squeezed out the remaining lather into my hands and massaged into my neck and face as a soap pack lol. I jumped in the bath and let the lather sit there for my 20min soak before washing off. Post shave feel very good, no drying which i'd expect from a soap with no coconut oil, but it was somewhat on the tacky side again due to the superfated oils etc.

In conclusion I think its a good soap being vegan, and I near exclusively use vegan soaps and wouldn't call 90% of the high end loved by all vegan soaps as good.
Would I buy it all relates to how the superfats/oils are dialed down to improve how the residual slickness is created in the shave. And finally how the smell changes once the soap is scented.

I'm going to have 3 more shaves with the soap and report back. I'll be going using my Oneblade, my General and my go to cart of Gilette Fusion.

Once again thank you for the chance to try this soap Kerry @phoenixandbeau I think its very close to getting up into my top 3 vegan soaps, i'd love to try it once scented to see how it completes the full package but would also love those oils dialed down a tad.

Thanks for the very considered write up, Mem and thanks for taking the time.

Quick point to note, we won't be offering it in an unscented version. That's not because I detect the same funky weird smell you describe (YMMV, etc and, as it is, I don't mind the unscented smell of the raw soap) but just because we've found unscented soaps simply don't keep pace with their scented brethren.

20 minute post shave soak! Now that's something I definitely have to try next time I'm in the tub .

Very keen to see how you get on with your other shaves.

In anticipation,

Kerry.