Nice restoration video
- Thread starter Nishy
- Start date
UKRob
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Sorry Nishy, I have to disagree. To me it’s comes under the category of polished turds. The fact that he used the same shape scales despite taking a lot of metal off the blade length suggests a lack of empathy - and the fact that he did not create a wedge suggests a lack of knowledge as to how scales work. Lastly, he was using what looked like a bulldog clip to hone - pure sacrilege.
It may not have been the way I might do it but if it made a usable razor in the end that counts too. WRT the use of a spacer and not a wedge and lack of knowledge on how scales are supposed to work. All I can say is that I have seen quite a few custom razors follow that path and nobody seems to mind. Makes you wonder about the lack of knowledge on that subject in the straight razor user base.
Bob
Bob
Haha yes I was wondering what he used to maintain the honing angle, a bulldog clip jeez, I thought I had seen an undiscovered gem
I did think about the final.clip when he cuts through, what appears to be paper, you can tell it's not super sharp, then again I'm guessing it's thin paper. Also finishing on a fairly low grit.
So why the hell did I label it 'nice restoration' I like shiny things
UKRob
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I’ve noticed that too Bob. They seem to adjust the insides of the scales to avoid the tang catching when the razor is closed. Surely it’s much simpler to make a wedge that is about the same angle as the taper on the tang - that way, the scales are bowed to accommodate the razor in its closed position.
Would I be right in thinking, taking a dremmel like tool to steel could affect the razor too? This being from latent heat and from a balance perspective- human error in buffing/removing steel?
If so what is the best way to remove pitting without damaging a razor or the etching? I ask as I have 2 razors in need of TLC and both are precious
If so what is the best way to remove pitting without damaging a razor or the etching? I ask as I have 2 razors in need of TLC and both are precious
Yes, using power tools to remove metal can affect the tempering of the blade adversely. There are ways around that by using heat sinks and so on.
It is better to take your time and hand sand the blade to remove pitting especially if you don't have a lot of experience with power tools. You may not be able to remove all the pitting depending how deep it goes and how light a grind the blade is. You really can't sand or polish etching as it will remove it. The best you can do is cover the exact area of the etching with nail polish or tape like painter's tape and work around it if you want to preserve the etching.
Bob
UKRob
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Bob has already made some good points - I would not have gone about re-shaping the toe in the way that he did. There’s always a danger of ruining the temper so at least he should have tried to keep the blade cool with water or even ice. .
As regards removing pitting - which he did not do by the way - you can only do this by removing all of the material around the pits i.e. a re-grind generally unless you want to spend hours and hours hand sanding. The problem with deep pitting is that you can create uneven spots by hand sanding them out, and if this is close to the edge you run the risk of having an uneven bevel. It’s much easier and accurate to use abrasive wheels and belts.
Thanks for the info, I think I may have even asked for this advice previously. It is a King Pelican which despite being kept in its box, with silica and being completely dry/unused has developed pitting marks. A bit annoying but I'll put it down to ageing with dignity.
UKRob
Forum GOD!
I remember a thread on TSR where Neil Miller warned against placing too much confidence in silica packs - can’t recall the science behind it but Neil was, as ever, a mine of knowledge. As a matter of course I use Ballistol oil on the pivot and bevel areas of my straight razors - it’s skin friendly and light enough not to turn gunky over time. I believe Camelia oil is also used by many people.