Thank you.
Looking at all brands across the board, in combination with what you have written above, I personally narrow your choices down to four brands:
1. Rolex/Tudor,
2. Omega,
3. Grand Seiko (GS), and
4. Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC).
Rolex
The pros (of owning one):
- Can take more than a beat and is extremely sturdy.
- Can be serviced with reasonable cost in any city around the world. Average full service cost is abt £450 but that's once every 10 years.
- It's equivalent to having cash in your pocket if you ever want to part with it.
- You can pass it down to your son or daughter 30 or 40 years down the line, it ages like good wine.
- Can easily take and look great on leather, rubber or textile straps (thus it is highly versatile).
- Tudor is a great alternative to Rolex, cheaper, but of course aesthetics are less refined and the luxury element is slightly less pronounced.
The cons:
- It is more expensive than the competition, but you always get what you pay for.
- It is not as accurate as a co-axial Omega, a JLC or a GS (but you may not care that much about a some secs per day anyway).
- It is fairly mainstream among watch enthusiasts and broadly easily recognizable among the general population.
- Its design can be a bit old fashioned for some, while it is a classic for others.
- Rolex is updating its movements in stages; the 36mm and 39mm Oysters are still due for an upgrade (2019) so if you get one now it will be with the present movement which carries a lower power reserve.
- You cannot be certain that the model or dial you like will be available in T5 on the day of your flight; Rolex models are very popular and authorised dealers (ADs) receive certain quantities per model. Highly sought after models usually come in 1 or 2 pc quantities only and get sold within 12/24hrs from the moment they go on display.
Recommended models:
- The classic Oyster or an Oyster preferably with date complication (i.e. a Datejust [DJ]), in either 36mm / 39mm / 41mm case size.
- The
DJ 41mm carries the 2017 updated movement and its effective (exc. crown) dia. is actually less than 41mm, so it is not a huge watch.
- If you choose an Oyster model (i.e. no date complication) in either 36mm or 39mm, try first the smooth bezel option + oyster bracelet. In both 36mm and 39mm variants, it gives a very clean look. Oyster 39 comes with 4 different dial options at the moment, if I remember well.
- If you choose a DJ model and especially the 2017 updated DJ41, try first the fluted bezel + jubilee bracelet version (blue dial recommended here of course). This is a recently (2017) updated piece and overall exceptionally well executed so even if it comes at (say) £500-1000 more than your budget, it's worth it.
- Tudor Black Bay 39mm (Basel 2018), or the Tudor Black Bay GMT.
Omega
The pros:
- Can take a beat but comparatively is slightly more sensitive than a Rolex.
- Cheaper than a Rolex (and yes, this matters to many).
- Can be serviced with reasonable cost.
- Co-axial movement is technically more advanced, more efficient and certainly more accurate than a Rolex movement.
- You move away from houses (i.e. brands) that use retail market manipulation techniques.
- You pay more real money for what you get, while with Rolex you pay quite a bit for the pedigree.
- Mainstream among watch enthusiasts and less easily recognizable among the general population (which is good for safety reasons).
The cons:
- Greater depreciation, comparatively smaller resale value.
- Fairly easy with straps. Omega straps work best though. You need to look into this in more detail prior to the purchase.
- It's not a Rolex and will not become one 30 or 40 years down the line.
Recommended models:
- Aqua Terra 150, 41mm (recently updated, few variants to choose from, best to start with the one with steel bracelet).
- Railmaster. 40mm. A basic classic, good legibility, no date function. A great watch to start out with, but in 10yrs time it can't reach you where the Rolex will. A watch that will need to become your second one in a decade.
- The 2018 updated Seamaster 300. More sporty, but very well worked out in its latest iteration, almost all flaws from the previous generation are now ironed out.
Grand Seiko
The pros:
- Can take a beat, easily.
- Cheaper than a Rolex and much, much more efficient.
- Technically more advanced, way more accurate than a Rolex, and very well made altogether.
- You move away from houses (i.e. brands) that use retail market manipulation techniques.
- You pay more real money for what you get, while with Rolex you pay quite a bit for the pedigree.
- Highly respected among watch enthusiasts and not recognizable among the general population (which is good for safety reasons).
The cons:
- Greater depreciation as compared to Rolex, smaller resale value but the brand name is rising in Europe and U.S.
- Higher service costs when compared to an Omega or Rolex.
- OK with straps. GS straps work well as well, limited options though.
- It's not a Rolex and will not become one 30 or 40 years down the line.
Recommended models:
- You need to visit the GS boutique in central London, and now I just remembered that probably you won't be able to find GS at LHR. But if from China you could fly for a night's stay to Japan, that can change everything....
Jaeger-LeCoultre
The pros:
- Can take a beat.
- The watchmaker's watch, this is what they call a JLC.
- Solidly made, elegant and accurate. Much more hand work in a JLC (Rolex is 90% or more made by a machine).
- Very well engineered, with haute horlogerie (H.O.) principles blended in.
- You pay for the name a H.O. house carries with it. This watch, by brand name and DNA, is a clear step above Rolex.
- Highly respected among watch enthusiasts and not easily recognizable among the general population (which is good for safety reasons).
The cons:
- Slightly greater depreciation as compared to Rolex.
- Higher service costs when compared to an Omega or Rolex.
- Not easy with straps. JLC sticks to the difficult 21mm lug width size for few of its models, and this makes life hard.
Recommended models:
- The Master Control Date (Ref. 1548530). Looks too simple as a watch, but it is not. You won't regret it.
- Reverso Classic Large small secs (Ref. 3858520). A timepiece that you may underestimate when you first put it on your wrist, but one which will gradually grow on you during the first two months of ownership.
Good luck with your choice and fire away any other questions you may have in the weeks to come.
